Teacup Travels: Istanbul (Part 1)
There are few cities in the world that can match the magnificence of Istanbul. It has everything – a rich history and a huge range of historical sites, amazing food, street cats, perfectly manicured parks and so much more. I was there for three weeks in 2018 and now can’t wait to go back to see everything I missed the first time. Here’s what makes Istanbul an unmissable destination…
A Complicated History
Istanbul has a chequered past – having been Roman/Greek (then named Constantinople), Ottoman and now part of modern Turkey. During my time there and since, I have sought to unravel the complex history of this place. I happened to be reading Birds Without Wings by Louis de Bernières during the trip, which aside from being deeply moving also provided illumination on the city’s past and a biography of the Turkish leader Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (‘Father of the Turks’), who founded modern Turkey in 1923.
The birth of the nation was painful, with a large scale, enforced population exchange with thousands of Christians in what is now Turkey being forced to move to Greece and vice versa. It seems this ‘ethnic cleansing’ was helped along by the Lausanne treaty, which also removed rights for Armenians. Prior to this, Istanbul had been part of the wide-ranging Muslim Ottoman empire. Overthrowing the old empire, Ataturk was intent on building a modern, democratic and supposedly secular nation. He even reformed the language of the country, abandoning Arabic and forcing adoption of the Latin alphabet used across the West. Ataturk is still a figure of huge admiration and respect in Istanbul today.
As a Hellenophile, I couldn’t help but feel some conflict in my admiration for both Greece and Turkey. I love the books of the writer Patrick Leigh Fermor, who helped Greek forces fight the Italians during WWII. It was clear where his loyalties lay, as he refused to even use the word Istanbul. While discussing my trip to Turkey with a waiter in Greece, he lamented that Constantinople was taken, even recalling the date it fell – 1453. This loss continues to be a sore point in Greece.
If you’re interested in finding out more, I would highly recommend reading Birds Without Wings and watching the Netflix series Ottoman.
Historical Sites
There are so many to choose from, but here are a few of the highlights.
Hagia Sophia (Aya Sophia in Turkish): A masterpiece of antiquity, the original church on the site of the Hagia Sophia is said to have been ordered to be built by Constantine I in 325, on the foundations of a pagan temple. The current structure was built by Eastern Roman Emperor Justinian I in 537. It later became an Ottoman Imperial Mosque and was opened as a museum on the orders of Ataturk in 1935.
Topkapı Palace: This sprawling palace complex was the residence of the Ottoman court from 1478 to 1856, housing up to 4,000 inhabitants including up to 300 in the harem. It features elegant architecture with beautiful, richly decorated interiors and rooms full of treasures to explore.
The Basilica Cistern: Featured in the Bond film From Russia with Love, this mysterious underground cavern is one of many cisterns that lie beneath the city. Built between the 3rd and 4th centuries, it provided a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople and later for the Topkapı Palace. Its ceiling is supported by 336 marble columns, including a few that stand out. One of the columns features what looks like tears, and this is said to be a sort of memorial for the many slaves who died building the structure. There are also two curious columns with large upturned Medusa heads at the base. (My pictures don’t do them justice, Google it!) These eerie monuments are likely to have been recycled from an older pagan building.
Sultan Ahmet Square (formerly the Hippodrome of Constantinople): This site was formerly the social and sporting capital of Constantinople, where it served as an arena for entertainments such as horse and chariot racing. It is thought to have been built as early as 203, by the Roman emperor Septimius Severus. It now features a number of ancient monuments, including the fascinating Serpent Column, which was removed from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi by Constantine.
One of the buildings along this square is the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. This is worth visiting for the building alone, which was formerly the palace of Pargalı Ibrahim Pasha, the second grand vizier to the sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. It features a whole range of items including rugs, tiles and Islamic calligraphy. You can even see some pieces of Muhammad’s beard! For me, the highlight was this large set of Seljuq doors featuring an elaborate dragon knocker.
Stunning Views
Istanbul is a hilly city, giving rise to many stunning views from the viewpoints at the various palaces and parks. One of the best is at Pierre Loti Café, where you can then take a cable car down the hillside. Taking a boat ride down the Bosphorus will also give you a look at some of the main sights along the way.
There is so much to fit in I’ve split this article into two parts! Check out part two for more on Istanbul’s parks, palaces, tea gardens, shopping, food and street cats… 😻😻😻
